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Glossary entry

français term or phrase:

Grandes voies

anglais translation:

Long routes

Added to glossary by anna purna
Apr 4, 2006 13:29
19 yrs ago
2 viewers *
français term

Grandes voies

français vers anglais Autre Sports / forme physique / loisirs Mountaineering
A very useful definition follows this heading...

Enchaînement de plusieurs longueurs d’escalade
équipées de pitons, spits et relais afin de réaliser
un itinéraire de montagne. On parle de grandes
voies au-dessus de trois longueurs d’escalade.

... but is it exactly the same thing as 'big wall' climbing? All the definitions I have seen for big wall mention the fact that the climbers generally set off for two or three days and bivouac out on a ledge (or somewhere equally precarious). This is NOT mentioned in my French text.

Other headings include 'murs d'escalade', 'école d'escalade' (crags), 'bloc' (bouldering), 'alpinisme', cascade de glace' and 'dry tooling', so the word has to fit in around all the other categories.

Thanks!
Proposed translations (anglais)
3 Long routes
4 Big wall
2 Main routes

Discussion

Jocelyne S Apr 5, 2006:
I agree with Allan, multipitch may work in your explanation, but not in the heading.
Allan Jeffs Apr 5, 2006:
Hi Anna. I'd still go with 'long route' as 'multipitch' is climbing by definition means two or more pitches, whereas 'long route' is "au-dessus de trois longueurs d'escalade" (as in your description)
anna purna (asker) Apr 5, 2006:
Sorry, Allan (I bet I'm not the first...). So, to conclude, do you (and the other people who have been kind enough to participate) think that 'long routes' or 'multipitch climbing' would be best here?
Allan Jeffs Apr 4, 2006:
BTW it's Allan. Yes, a pitch is the distance between two anchor points - as I indicated.
anna purna (asker) Apr 4, 2006:
Thanks, Jeff. Do you think that a pitch is a 'longeur'?
anna purna (asker) Apr 4, 2006:
Can anyone tell me if 'multipitch climbing' (climbing on routes that are too long for a singe belay) would correspond to the definition I gave in French? Is a 'longeur', the length that you can climb before having to start a new rope?

This is a term a found in Wikipedia when I was looking for something else...
anna purna (asker) Apr 4, 2006:
Re-long routes Jeff - I had considered something like this, but I didn't feel that it read very well alongside the other 'chapter headings' (see above), that all descibe a 'type' of climbing.
Hattie Hill Apr 4, 2006:
But then again, check out this terminology page:

http://clubalpinvalence.com/articles/dict.php?src=ang&PHPSES...
Hattie Hill Apr 4, 2006:
I don't think taht "grande voie" and "grande paroi" are the same thing. See the "Déroulement" paragraph of this website: http://www.guides-ariege.com/Fiche.php?prod=ASCMIP0090000145

Still searching for you...
Hattie Hill Apr 4, 2006:
Yes, I think there might be a difference. See the 4th paragraph on this page:

http://www.ffme.fr/artif/actu/supertopo1.htm

Seems as though "grandes voies" might be a sub-category of "big wall" climbing...
anna purna (asker) Apr 4, 2006:
I see from various glossaries that 'grande paroi' and grande falaise' can be translated (correctly??) as 'big wall', so another way of asking my question would be 'Is a 'grande voie' the same as a grande paroi/falaise?
anna purna (asker) Apr 4, 2006:
Sorry, I should have added that we are in the French Alps and it is for a guide to various mountain activities.

Proposed translations

24 minutes
Selected

Long routes

Petzl Sport - HarnaisLes harnais d'escalade Petzl sont équipés du Delta System et des boucles DoubleBack. ... où l'on change rarement de tenue : salle, falaise, grande voie. ...
fr.petzl.com/petzl/SportFamille?Famille=6 - 19k - En cache - Pages similaires
[ Autres résultats, domaine fr.petzl.com ]


Falaises de Presles


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Note added at 1 hr (2006-04-04 14:30:36 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------

I take your point Anna but "long route" would appear to be the term. See references below (particularly the last one) all refering to climbing in the French Alpes.

References:
1. Wow, it was a long route…

Yes, about 60 moves. By now I had memorised the sequence for the first and second section really well and it was all down to getting past the hard move, a type of knot that I got each time I reached the crux. Thanks to the meditation and the visualisation I managed to overcome this block.


2. West Slope and West Ridge (normal route)
Very long route with difficult route finding. Poor Rock. AD (G4) with III-, 1650m. 6h in ascent, 3-4h in descent.
First ascent by Almer, Barrington & Bohren in 1858.

3. Long route from La Bérarde or from Chatelleret hut
La Bérarde to the place where the trail leaves Chatelleret hut trail : 1h
Etançons to Plaret Glacier: 2h30
Plaret Glacier to summit on the east face: 2h

4. ALL AROUND, CRAG AND LONG ROUTE. Uppers : unlined leather. ... Gear sling with a removable climbing pack. Padded shoulders. Wide capacity. ...
www.larosiere.twinner-sports.com/ images/catalogue_produit/Cat_promontagne04.pdf



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Note added at 1 hr (2006-04-04 15:25:11 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------

Definition of 'MULTIPITCH CLIMBING'

A climb with more than one Pitch.
The distance between where your original anchor (or the ground) is located and where the leader setups the next anchor is a 'pitch'. A 5 pitch climb will require 5 anchors (4 anchors on the rock face and one anchor at the top of the climb). 'Pitch' lengths are normally between 20 to 70 meters depending on your team's climbing tactics.

How many belay devices do I need?
The short answer is one. Make sure it suitable for belaying and rappelling.
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4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer. Comment: "Thanks for your help, 'long routes' it is!"
1 heure

Big wall

See a very readable site www.planetfear.co click on articles. There are three articles on how to tackle a big wall and it seems that some of them can be climbed in a day-depending on speed and level. Hope this helps.
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29 minutes

Main routes

Route is definitely the term for "voie". For grande voie, "main route" is often used, but other possibilities may also exist.

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Note added at 2 hrs (2006-04-04 16:10:10 GMT)
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Hi Anna,
Yes, you can translate "longueur" by pitch.
HTH,
Jocelyne

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Note added at 18 hrs (2006-04-05 08:13:29 GMT)
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A few sites, fyi :

Amazon.com: World Mountaineering : The World's Great Mountains by ... - [ Traduire cette page ]In all, World Mountaineering reveals the dazzling array of climbing possibilities and ... and summaries of the main routes on mountains across the world, ...
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ tg/detail/-/0821225022?v=glance - 109k - En cache - Pages similaires


MOUNTAINEERING - [ Traduire cette page ]... used for pitching a base camp from which short approaches lead to main routes. ... Bus ride from the airport to the mountaineering base and back, food, ...
www.tien-shan.com/programs/cat2003/eng/c2003_mtg.htm - 23k - En cache - Pages similaires


The Bezengi mountaineering camp. District - [ Traduire cette page ]The Bezengi mountaineering camp ... Having passed one more 30-minute ascent, you get close to the main routes of this area. Here at the lower and upper ...
ex-magazine.ru/bezengi/descripte.html - 15k - En cache - Pages similaires


Icicle Mountaineering: Chamonix Quarterly Newsletter - [ Traduire cette page ]Chamonix Quarterly Newsletter, Icicle Mountaineering operates alpine, ... You will travel to the base of your main routes and attempt a short day route in ...
www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/news.shtml - 36k - En cache - Pages similaires
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